Display easels usually come in two different types: big, heavy easels for several hundred dollars or cheap unstable ones that topple from the slightest breeze. You can build your own quality display easel in one day or over a weekend. And, to save on cost, you don't have to use fancy wood finishes. They can be built using a quality hardwood instead of pine. You can even get the materials pre-cut at a hardware store for exact measurements. This will save you time and money.
Instructions
1. Build a center piece to support the easel with two slots (top and bottom rests). This allows for up and down movements to different positions. Mark the spot for the bottom slot (half an inch wide), which should be in the center of the wood running from 4 inches low to a high position of 45 inches from the bottom. Cut the slot using a drill hole of a half inch in diameter at the top and bottom of the wood. Cut out this 41-inch-long slot with a jigsaw (make sure the cut is accurate).
Now, mark the spot for the top slot from 48 1/2 inches to 66 1/2 inches in height from the bottom of the wood. Cut it out using the same method as for the bottom slot. Use the jigsaw to cut a rounded shape for the center support and sand the slots.
2. Adjust the two front legs by rounding them and use the top and bottom cross members. Glue the legs by first laying them on the floor. Make sure the bottom of the two legs are spread 21 3/4 inches apart and the top legs are 3 1/4 inches apart. Next, glue and screw brass screws into the bottom cross member and the two legs with the cross member 9 inches from the bottom of the legs. The top cross member should be glued and screwed 55 3/4 inches from the bottom of each leg. Draw a straight line across both legs using a straight rule. Cut off the excess wood below each line.
3. Glue the center support piece onto the center of the cross members with the bottom starting from the lowest part of the cross member. Make sure it is attached to the same side as the front legs to assure the piece is level.
4. Round the top of the back leg piece into a quarter circle. Cut a half-inch slot of 5 1/2 inches in height to 12 inches from the top into the back leg. The slot is for the sliding connector between the front and back pieces. Now, curve each top end of the back leg and cut a quarter-inch groove (three-quarter-inch wide) down the center and attach the back leg with screws and glue. Do the same to the bottom of the back leg. Next, attach two brass hinges, 1 1/2 inches long, to the top of the back leg connecting it to the top back support on the front of the easel.
5. Use small brass screws on the sides of the center support piece and a bolt to connect the front and back connectors to the back of the leg. Glue an extra piece of scrap wood on the back of each connector for added support.
6. Complete the main bottom and top supports. First, build the bottom support by taking one of the bottom rests three-quarter inches by 3 1/2 inches by 23 inches piece of wood and routing grooves into one side. Rout out all of the top of a second piece of wood, leaving a thin section at one side. Connect the three pieces together using glue and screws; and drill a hole through the center of all three. Insert a bolt through the hole in the main slot in the center support. Use the wing nut to tighten the bolt.
Make the top support rest by shaping the larger piece of top rest wood three-quarter inches by 2 1/2 inches by 9 inches and attaching a smaller piece, 1 1/2 inches in width, underneath it. Attach the shaped piece to the center support piece by drilling a hole, inserting a bolt and tightening it with the wing nut.
7. Sand, clean and wax the easel.
